This is a quick, down-n-dirty method to putting on and sharpening a convex micro-bevel using a belt sander. As you will see, even a cheap 1" belt sander can do the trick (and is exactly what I will use to sharpen your knives).

You will need these supplies:

• A Medium belt - 180 grit Aluminum Oxide "X" weight (not shown)
• A Fine belt - A30, A16 grit Trizact or 400/600/800 Aluminum Oxide "X"
• A Micron belt - 9 to 15 micron silicon carbide
• A Leather or Felt belt - loaded with buffing compound

Here are a few pics:

I start out at my 2x72 KMG, really only because it's already set up with the 180 grit belt and I prefer to set the bevel on it first. You can do the exact same thing even on a 1"x30" belt sander.

First step, then, is to set the bevel. I work several passes at a time, dunking the blade in a bucket of soapy water inbetween.

Click here to see a video of Step One

Now, I move to the 1"x42" belt sander (see Shop Tour for more info). It has the 3M Trizact belt on it. I work the blade with medium pressure against the belt, right above the platen. I try to visualize a clearance width of two times the spine inbetween the belt and the spine of the knife. (read that one twice!)

Click here to see a video of Step Two

After I've done both sides, there should be a significant burr. It may even be loose enough to wipe off with your hand, depending on the knife, on how evenly you have sharpened it, and on the pressure you have exerted. I "knock" the burr off by running the blade to-n-fro against a hard surface.

Click Here to see a video of Step Three

Now I switch to the Micron belt - in my case, it is a very old belt that is so worn, it's now very smooth. I have added a little compound to help it polish a little better. A new silicon carbide belt will work fine for you. I start with 3 passes each side, then two, then one - still working above the platen in the slack belt area. Afterwards, I "wipe" the blade to remove any burr.

Click Here to see a video of Step Four

The last step is to power-strop the blade with a leather or felt belt - loaded with buffing compound. I prefer to use the rough side out, it holds the compound better and cuts faster. You can still get a "scary sharp" edge this way. This step differs from the others in that I am now working against the platen. I am now pushing with more force. Also, I have widened the gap between the spine and the belt in order to properly strop the edge. This, at first, may seem counter-intuitive. However, if you review the Convex Edge page, you'll see that the closer you get to the tip, the more obtuse the edge becomes. Therefore, if you are going to truly strop all the way to the tip, you need to push harder and angle the blade lower. (read this twice too !)

After I have stropped the edge, I check it by running the edge carefully across the tip of my fingernail. This should feel as smooth as glass. If there is any resistance, abrasion or "dings" in the edge, you'll find it quickly - and it's back to Step One.

Click here to see a video of Step Five

Well, there you go! That's really all it takes, and is exactly what I do on each and every knife that leaves my shop. Some take more time/effort than others, of course. But there's no magic involved.