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Frequently
Asked Questions
Q.
Do you do mostly stock
removal, or forging?
A.
Both, actually...and on the
same knife. You can read about
my experiments with forging
on the Process page and can
see my equipment in the ShopTour
area. I believe that forging
is primarly for freedom of creativity in arriving at a unique design - something that is not easily equaled by stock removal.
Because of my association with Tom Krein (see Bio) I have gravitate more toward stock removal, however I do strive to attain uniqueness whenever I can and do all my own heat-treating when practical.
Important Note!
I have stopped forging due to an injury to my right hand in early 2006
Q.
How do you figure out
what to charge for your work?
A.
This is the knifemaker's
bane - how to price your
work in a way that sells
without devaluing your efforts.
If you want a cheap knife,
I'm not the guy. A custom
knifemaker's price for work
ought to reflect the quality
of their product, regardless
of demand. There are many
knifemakers who can make
you a knife - but how many
of those knives are actually
carefully, individually
designed? and look good?
have high quality materials?
and perform well? Hopefully,
that's why you're here -
because you are interested
in something more than "just
a knife". It was once
posited that it only costs
$70-100 to make a knife
in materials and the rest
is time and effort. I would
agree with that, except
to add that using higher
quality materials does drive
the cost up. I do not bill
for mistakes or experiments.
Ideally, I would like to
make $20/hr making a
knife, but most times, it
just doesn't work out that
way. Billing hourly would
be unfair to both of us.
So, back to the opening
sentence - I do my best
to find a price that is
a good deal for the buyer
and allows me to turn a
small profit and stay in
business.
Update: See the Order Tracker for examples of my pricing.
Q.
Do you grind edges
other than convex?
A.
Yes. Please read the
section on The
Convex Edge. I put
convex edges on most
all of my knives because
of the durability and
ease of maintaining
the edge. That said,
I will - upon request
- put on a flat beveled
edge (typically 20 degrees).
Please understand, though,
that whether the primary
grind is flat, convex
or hollow, a convex
micro-bevel edge can
always be applied and
99 times out of 100,
this will increase the
performance of the knife.
Further, all convex-edged
knives will be shipped
"scary sharp"
- unless otherwise requested.
Q.
What is the best way
to reach you?
A.
By email. I check my email
several times every day.
Just click on the Email
button at the bottom of
this and every other page.
If talking over the phone
is easier for you, go to the Contact page and give me a ring.
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